How to Take & Catch a Lead Fall | Rock Climbing October 18, 2019 Related posts: How to Tie Figure 8 Follow-Through Knot | Rock Climbing 5 Fundamentals of Indoor Rock Climbing | Rock Climbing How to Grip Indoor Climbing Holds | Rock Climbing Shoot The Rock Climber!! Tags:belay, bouldering, climbing, Howcast, indoor rock climbing, lead belay, mountain climbing, rock climbing, rock crawling Related Posts THE ROCK REACTS TO GUESS THAT MOVIE CHALLENGE (Ft. Skyscraper Cast) The Earth is Definitely Not Flat How to Achieve Your Most Ambitious Goals | Stephen Duneier | TEDxTucson About The Author Dovie Hartmann 25 Comments P0dDels Description isn't completely right. Imagine falling on a not even vertical rock wall as it happens most of the time outdoor. Just ''falling down'' as he describes it will probably brake you legs and knees. In certain situations you have to jump back to control your falling. August 24, 2013 Reply stoyan cinov why did i watch this XD August 24, 2013 Reply noam yoffe your carabiner its unlock… April 24, 2014 Reply Richard Smith We're not using static manila ropes anymore secured with around the body bowlines instead of harnesses and setting up body belays. Let the rope, the harness, and the draws do the energy absorbing and you do the "don't let my buddy hit his head on the ground" absorbing. I'm sorry but this is probably the most garbage belaying I've seen to date. Since when have we ever wanted to stand so far away from the wall? Or run and jump up to it? God forbid your buddy did take a good fall on real rock and you were standing so far away, now you're getting face slammed into the wall and when your friend decks out because of all the extra slack in the line and hits his head on a rock on the ground and DIES or is seriously injured. You belay close to the rock. It does a few things, it mitigates chance of getting hit by something falling, lessens the angle on his protection to prevent zippering, as well as it keeps him from decking out. If your buddy takes a fall and its that awkward distance of "can't run back, can't suck up slack" then you drop to your ass and hold the brake. I understand you're at a gym and there isn't protection, and the chance of falling rock… well its nonexistent. That being said the chance of there being sufficient slack between yourself and the wall exists and at no point should you allow that slack to occur to increase that fall distance. May 10, 2014 Reply Djaya75 thx June 1, 2014 Reply Kenny Nguyen Still scares me shitless when I slip and fall July 1, 2014 Reply mondblume63 Good points, and yeah I know people shouldn't consider YouTube video-watching as training, but c'mon. Nothing about paying out rope so as not to short rope your climber, or allowing too much slack so your climber will hit deck/ledge/bulge etc when they fall? Critical skills for lead belaying. August 26, 2014 Reply Elkan Duong How come Gaz fell so far? November 14, 2014 Reply Elkan Duong I am just so scared of lead falling November 14, 2014 Reply Elkan Duong Was he supposed to fall that far? He was only about 3 feet from hitting the ground. December 7, 2014 Reply Elkan Duong What does he mean by falling down not out December 7, 2014 Reply Keith Loughnane You're carb is not locked and you nearly let your buddy hit the ground. You're reckless. Forget the fancy bouncy stuff, the rope will stretch and take the shock, lock your damn crab, hold the bloody dead rope and don't let your climb take a 10 meter fall so you can look fancy. January 17, 2015 Reply Shawn Cope He should have fallen 5 feet not 20 March 5, 2015 Reply Powder Hound I agree with Keith 100%. You are a liability and should not be allowed to work in a climbing gym, let alone give instruction of any kind. March 13, 2015 Reply Super Saiyan The first time i tried this. I hit my head sadly and regret doing this the end. December 27, 2015 Reply Sofia D How could someone be teaching us this when his Carabiner isn't locked. His climber fell way to far and was so close to hitting the floor. December 31, 2015 Reply Jae [alias Lili] May I add this in y climbing video and give you guys credit? 🙂 March 20, 2016 Reply computername To all the people getting butthurt about the climber have a too long fall. Unlike other videos, this shows how massive a lead fall can be, thereby raising the awareness towards good belaying in lead climbing. Do you seriously think they couldn't do better? It is a very good demonstration how far a climber can go down, which most people underestimate. Ihe really dangerous fall is always when problems sum up, like the belayer too far from the wall, pulling the rope out too far for clipping, having a lot of slack, bolts being far apart etc. I find this a very eye opening lesson May 31, 2016 Reply Lydia Buhler it's not unlocked when they are climbing… just the initial first shot March 20, 2017 Reply Muddy miko There's time to give slack too?! February 26, 2018 Reply Miguel De Jesus it's annoying that way the video is edited so that we don't clearly see the belayer demonstrate the jump technique. March 19, 2018 Reply JJ Sevins Also kids, always remember to belay with 10 feet of extra slack so when the leader has a bolt at his feet he still takes a 20 foot fall and almost decks. April 16, 2018 Reply Triggerboy78 A really bad video…1. Carabiner not closed… thats a absolute no-go2. This technique is only viable when he climber is high enough.3. It is way better to keep the rope without much slack to let him fall as less as possible4. DONT jump while he is falling giving him even more fall-depth, especially if he climbs so low, after the fall your climbing partner was almost at the same hight like you!!! This video gives me headache.. September 9, 2018 Reply Jake Sevins The leader's knot is about 5 ft above the bolt. The fall should therefore be about 10 feet. But there is rope stretch and the belayer gives a soft catch, so maybe 15 feet. This 20' fall just means the belayer had a bunch of slack out. That's fine if you KNOW the leader won't hit the ground, but if it's gonna be close, you have to keep less slack and don't jump. I've belayed nationals before… it's not as easy as it looks. July 16, 2019 Reply Samuel Muratalla Anyone know what kind of shoes the Belayer is using? I like those. September 15, 2019 Reply Add a Comment Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.